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Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Day 19: Mattina in Calvello then on to Matera

18 Gennaio... evening

The castle built by the Normans towers over Calvello

We had a leisurely dinner at the hotel with Raffaela who is the president of the local folkloric society.  She spoke SOME english.  She realized we hadn't had luck seeing inside any of the old churches , nor did we have luck buying some Calvello ceramics (which they are famous for).  So she called the pottery place and arranged that he open at 9am.

19 Gennaio...day

Then we met at the square... and surprise!  Vincenzo was there, and Herman's friend from the restaurant, as well as Raffaela.   (I'm not sure but I wouldn't be surprised if this had been a pre-arranged Bon Voyage for us).  We shook hands with everyone we had seen on the street the day before and everyone nodded and smiled at us.   Before we took off for siteseeing, Raffaela said the mayor wanted to meet us...(also a Gallecchio whom I had written to).  So we stopped at the offices, and got our picture taken with him and he autographed a lovely "coffee table picture book" of Calvello for me.  (I guess Dad will get the unautographed one I had already purchased  :). 
A lovely church in Calvello but I can't remember which one it is (there are several for a not very big town),,, current population is 2000.  I THINK this is the one where my great grandparents were married but I don't recognize it from this perspective.  We saw that church as well and it was a powerfully emotional experience for me.

Vincenzo, Mary and the woman from the records office

Us with Mayor Gallicchio (I haltingly told him that I had dreamed my whole life of coming here.  Said that everyone had been very nice to us and that we loved our visit.  Also said that maybe we are cousins?  Could be!)


Next stop was the pottery store where I had a hard time deciding,  I bought 4 pieces, but am not exactly sure how I will get them home.  The store owner's name is Rocco Gallicchio :) 

Then, we went to see the church by the convent, and the cloister around it (which is being renovated).  The sacrastan met us and opened it for us.  Just outside the convent, there was the regular Tuesday market going on and we ran into Vincenzo's sister there.  This is the oldest church in Calvello...built around 1100.....  Originally it was a Benedictine monestary... and then turned over to cloistered nuns of St Theresa. 

We reluctantly said goodbye to Calvello and Raffaella and Vincenzo...  and then we were off to our next destination, this time taking the "good" road.  HA!  Before you can get to the good highway, you must drive over twisty turny mountain roads.  It was gorgeous and sunny out, but our driver, Gianni, had too much coffee and had to stop to lose his coffee.  We finally got to the highway and in another hour we were in Matera.
Gianni (aka John), Vincenzo and Maria
Pretty view along the main street

Snow on the mountains
Calvello from the road... one of many mountain and hill towns we saw

Pretty countryside
A church on the outskirts of Calvello.  Our lady of Potentissima
A lovely fresco from the oldest church in Calvello
A fun painting at the Pietrapanna Ristorante.  I wish I had written down what it says.. but it shows a peasant and his donkey walking outside of Calvello... something about never really being able to leave Calvello behind

I'll make a second post about Matera... but  it was really insane trying to drive down these tight streets.  We are staying in a cave hotel.  I'll let you think about that and will post more tomorrow with pictures of the town.

We will have dinner here tonight but will have to take off early because we 're driving back towards Naples to the town of Paestum.  I am not sure about internet access... so if we don't post for awhile... do not worry about us... I'm still writing each day.

Maria

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